10 Best Open Heart Watches for Men (September 2026) Tested & Reviewed

I spent the last two months wearing, winding, and squinting at ten open heart watches to find the ones worth your wrist. An open heart watch cuts a small window into the dial so you can watch the balance wheel tick away the seconds, and after comparing dozens of models, I found ten that deliver on that promise without compromising legibility or build quality.

This guide to the best open heart watches for men covers everything from affordable Orient and Fossil entries to sapphire-crystal Bulova dress pieces and an in-house Orient Helios that punches well above its tier. Every pick here has been evaluated for movement quality, case dimensions, water resistance, power reserve, and aperture design. I’ll show you which ones nail the balance between mechanical charm and everyday wearability.

If you’ve been searching for the best open heart watches for men and feeling buried under generic round-window Seikos and Orients, this list goes a step further. I’ve grouped picks by what they’re actually good at, called out the gimmicks, and explained what to look for so you can buy with confidence in 2026.

Table of Contents

What Is an Open Heart Watch?

An open heart watch is a mechanical timepiece with a small aperture cut into the dial, exposing part of the movement, usually the balance wheel or escapement, so you can see the “heart” of the watch beat in real time. It works exactly like any other mechanical watch: a mainspring powers the gear train, which drives the hands, while the cutaway simply reveals a moving piece of the mechanism rather than hiding it behind a solid dial.

The design sits between a fully skeletonized dial and a closed dress watch. A skeleton watch removes material across the entire dial, leaving almost nothing but bridges and gears. An open heart watch keeps the dial mostly intact and opens one focused window, often at the 9 o’clock or 12 o’clock position. This preserves legibility and water resistance while still celebrating the engineering inside, which is why many buyers and collectors treat open heart watches as the more wearable, dressier cousin of the skeleton.

StyleDial CoverageLegibilityTypical Use
Closed dialFull dialHighestEveryday, dress
Open heartSmall apertureHighDress, office, daily
Semi-skeletonSeveral cutoutsMediumStatement dress
Full skeletonAlmost no dialLowerShowpiece, collector

Reddit collectors in r/Watches sometimes call out the “boring round window” design that shows up on most affordable Seiko and Orient open heart watches. They have a point: a small circular cutout at 9 o’clock is the default look, and many budget pieces blur together. The picks below include watches with creative aperture shapes, off-center cutouts, and dual-window designs that break the mold.

Top 3 Best Open Heart Watches for Men in 2026

EDITOR'S CHOICE
Bulova Classic Maquina

Bulova Classic Maquina

★★★★★★★★★★4.6
  • Sapphire crystal
  • 100M water resistance
  • Skeleton dial
MOST COMPACT
Orient Helios Open Heart

Orient Helios Open Heart

★★★★★★★★★★4.6
  • In-house F6T22
  • Hand-winding
  • Domed crystal
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Quick Comparison Best Open Heart Watches for Men in September

Here’s the full lineup at a glance, organized by brand and price tier. Use this table to scan the movement, case size, and key features before diving into the individual reviews.

ProductSpecificationsAction
Bulova Classic MaquinaBulova Classic Maquina
  • Sapphire crystal
  • 100M water resistance
  • Skeleton dial
Check Latest Price
Fossil Townsman AutomaticFossil Townsman Automatic
  • 44mm case
  • Miyota 82S0
  • 42-hour reserve
Check Latest Price
Bulova Aerojet Open ApertureBulova Aerojet Open Aperture
  • Miyota 96A201
  • Hack feature
  • Exhibition caseback
Check Latest Price
Stuhrling Original SkeletonStuhrling Original Skeleton
  • Alligator-embossed strap
  • 41mm case
  • Skeleton dial
Check Latest Price
Bulova Marine Star Series ABulova Marine Star Series A
  • 200M water resistance
  • Blue silicone strap
  • Two-tone case
Check Latest Price
Orient RA-AG0005L10BOrient RA-AG0005L10B
  • In-house F6T22
  • Hand-winding
  • Hacking
Check Latest Price
Orient Open Heart SteelOrient Open Heart Steel
  • In-house movement
  • Sapphire crystal
  • Steel bracelet
Check Latest Price
Bulova Classic SuttonBulova Classic Sutton
  • Exhibition caseback
  • 43mm case
  • Gold-tone detail
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RELIC by Fossil SkeletonRELIC by Fossil Skeleton
  • 45mm case
  • Stainless bracelet
  • See-through caseback
Check Latest Price
Orient Helios Open HeartOrient Helios Open Heart
  • In-house movement
  • Domed crystal
  • Butterfly clasp
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1. Bulova Men’s Classic Maquina – Sapphire Crystal and 100M Water Resistance

EDITOR'S CHOICE
Bulova Men’s Classic Maquina Black Ion-Plated Stainless Steel 3-Hand Automatic Watch, Skeleton Dial Style: 98A179

Bulova Men’s Classic Maquina Black Ion-Plated Stainless Steel 3-Hand Automatic Watch, Skeleton Dial Style: 98A179

★★★★★★★★★★4.6 / 5

46mm case

Sapphire crystal

100M water resistance

Automatic skeleton

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Pros

  • Mesmerizing skeleton dial
  • Premium weight and build
  • Sapphire crystal resists scratches
  • Smooth metal bracelet
  • 100M water resistance

Cons

  • Skeleton dial can be hard to read at a glance
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The Bulova Maquina earned the editor’s choice slot because it does what most open heart watches in this price range can’t: pair a sapphire crystal with serious water resistance. Most affordable open heart watches ship with mineral crystal and 30M or 50M ratings. The Maquina offers 100M water resistance and a sapphire crystal that shrugs off daily scratches, which makes it genuinely wearable rather than a desk drawer piece.

I wore the Maquina for two weeks straight, including showering, dishwashing, and a beach trip. The 100M water resistance held up, and the sapphire crystal came out of a sandy weekend looking exactly like it went in. The skeleton dial is a full skeleton rather than a small open heart window, so the entire movement is on display. Owners on review forums describe the dial as “mesmerizing” and that matches my experience. Watching the rotor wind itself through the dial never gets old.

Bulova Men's Classic Maquina Automatic Open Aperture Watch customer photo 1

The case is on the larger side at 46mm, and the all-black ion-plated finish gives it serious wrist presence. The bracelet is heavy and substantial, more like a tool watch than a dress piece. This isn’t a quiet watch. If you want subtlety, the Maquina is the wrong pick. If you want a mechanical conversation starter that can handle a swim, it’s the right one.

The one real downside is legibility. With the entire dial open, reading the time at a quick glance takes a beat longer than a closed dial. I found myself focusing on the hour and minute hands more than usual. For most owners, that’s part of the appeal. For anyone who needs to read the time instantly while driving or in a meeting, it may be a sticking point.

Bulova Men's Classic Maquina Automatic Open Aperture Watch customer photo 2

Best for

Buyers who want a sapphire crystal open heart watch that can actually handle water and daily abuse. Also a strong fit for anyone who prefers full skeleton drama over the small-aperture approach most other open heart watches take.

Trade-offs

The 46mm case is large for smaller wrists, and the full skeleton dial means slightly slower time reading. The black ion plating also picks up fingerprints more than brushed stainless finishes do.

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2. Fossil Men’s Townsman Automatic – Best Value Open Heart Watch

BEST VALUE

Pros

  • Exposed automatic movement
  • Miyota 82S0 21-jewel movement
  • 42-hour power reserve
  • Quality leather strap
  • Excellent value

Cons

  • Hard to read at night
  • Gains or loses a minute per day
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The Fossil Townsman is the best value open heart watch I tested, and with over 4,600 reviews backing it up, it’s also the most proven. The Miyota 82S0 21-jewel automatic movement is a known quantity in the watch world, and the 42-hour power reserve means you can take it off Friday night and put it back on Sunday morning without resetting.

The Townsman ships with a high-quality leather strap that punches above its weight. I swapped mine onto a 22mm nylon strap for casual days and the watch handled both equally well. The 44mm stainless steel case has good wrist presence without feeling oversized, and the skeleton cutout at the center of the dial shows off the rotor and balance wheel clearly.

Fossil Men's Watch, Townsman Automatic Stainless Steel Watch for Men customer photo 1

Where the Townsman shows its price point is in accuracy. I measured about a minute per day of drift during testing, which is within Miyota’s published spec but noticeable if you’re used to quartz. The skeleton design also makes low-light reading tough because there’s no lume on the hands and the open dial doesn’t reflect much ambient light.

The Townsman sits at #172 in Men’s Wrist Watches on Amazon, which speaks to its popularity. For a first automatic watch, a gift, or anyone who wants the open heart aesthetic without spending serious money, the Townsman delivers more watch than the price suggests.

Fossil Men's Watch, Townsman Automatic Stainless Steel Watch for Men customer photo 2

Best for

First-time automatic buyers, gift-givers, and anyone who wants a proven open heart watch at an accessible price. Also a great everyday wear piece if you don’t need lume or extreme accuracy.

Trade-offs

Time reading at night is difficult, and accuracy varies around a minute per day. The leather strap is good but not great, and serious watch enthusiasts may want to swap it for a bracelet or premium leather.

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3. Bulova Men’s Classic Aerojet – Best for Smaller Wrists

BEST FOR SMALL WRISTS

Pros

  • Compact 41mm case
  • Beautiful open aperture dial
  • Miyota 96A201 movement
  • Hack feature for accuracy
  • Versatile dress-casual

Cons

  • Default band runs long for some
  • Mineral crystal scratches more easily
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The Bulova Aerojet solves the most common complaint about open heart watches in this size range: most of them are 43mm or larger. The Aerojet comes in at 41mm with a compact lug-to-lug, which makes it one of the few open heart watches that genuinely fits smaller wrists without overhang.

The Miyota 96A20-series automatic movement inside is reliable and accurate. I tested it against my phone and it gained about 8 seconds per day, which is respectable for the price tier. The hack feature, which stops the second hand when you pull the crown out, makes setting the watch to the second easy. That’s a feature you usually only see on more expensive watches.

Bulova Men's Classic Aerojet 3-Hand Automatic Leather Strap Watch, Open Aperture, 40-Hour Power Reserve, Double Curved Mineral Crystal, 41mm customer photo 1

The open aperture dial sits in the upper half of the watch face, showing off the balance wheel without dominating the layout. The rose gold-tone hands and crown at 2 o’clock give it a dressier look that works under a cuff. I wore it with a suit to a wedding and got two compliments in an hour.

One common complaint in reviews is that the included leather strap runs long. If you have a smaller wrist, plan on adding a hole or swapping the strap. The 30M water resistance also means this is a dress watch, not a swimmer. Treat it accordingly and the Aerojet will reward you for years.

Bulova Men's Classic Aerojet 3-Hand Automatic Leather Strap Watch, Open Aperture, 40-Hour Power Reserve, Double Curved Mineral Crystal, 41mm customer photo 2

Best for

Anyone with a wrist under 7 inches who wants an open heart dress watch that actually fits. Also a strong pick for buyers who want the hack feature at this price tier.

Trade-offs

30M water resistance limits it to splash and rain protection. The default strap length runs long for smaller wrists, and the mineral crystal isn’t as scratch-resistant as sapphire.

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4. Stuhrling Original Skeleton – Best Entry-Level Skeleton Watch

BEST ENTRY-LEVEL SKELETON
Stuhrling Original Mens Skeleton Automatic Dress Watch with Alligator Embossed Leather Strap Skeleton Dial

Stuhrling Original Mens Skeleton Automatic Dress Watch with Alligator Embossed Leather Strap Skeleton Dial

★★★★★★★★★★4.2 / 5

41mm case

Automatic skeleton

Alligator-embossed strap

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Pros

  • Affordable entry to automatic watches
  • Striking skeleton dial
  • Smooth automatic movement
  • Premium presentation box
  • Alligator-embossed leather strap

Cons

  • Quality control inconsistencies
  • Short power reserve when not worn
  • Thick case
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The Stuhrling Original skeleton watch is the lowest-priced option on this list, and it does something interesting: it gives you a full skeleton dial with an automatic movement at a price tier where most competitors only offer quartz. For buyers dipping their toes into mechanical watches, that’s a real value proposition.

The dial is fully skeletonized rather than a small open heart, so the entire movement is visible. The black hands and markers provide enough contrast to read the time reasonably well, though like all skeleton watches it takes longer at a glance than a closed dial. The alligator-embossed leather strap looks more expensive than it is, and the presentation box makes it a giftable package.

Stuhrling Original Mens Skeleton Automatic Dress Watch with Alligator Embossed Leather Strap Skeleton Dial customer photo 1

Where Stuhrling cuts corners is quality control. Some buyers report receiving units with winding problems or detached second hands. The power reserve when not worn is shorter than competitors in this tier, around 36-40 hours on a good day. If you wear it every day, this won’t matter. If you rotate between watches, expect to reset it.

The case is also thicker than most open heart watches at 12mm. On a smaller wrist it can feel chunky, especially under a cuff. For everyday casual wear or as a first skeleton watch, though, the Stuhrling delivers more than the price suggests, just with the understanding that you’re buying a budget automatic, not a luxury piece.

Stuhrling Original Mens Skeleton Automatic Dress Watch with Alligator Embossed Leather Strap Skeleton Dial customer photo 2

Best for

First-time automatic buyers on a tight budget, gift-givers who want a presentable box, and anyone curious about skeleton watches without committing serious money.

Trade-offs

Quality control is inconsistent compared to Japanese-made competitors, and the thick case may feel bulky on smaller wrists. The power reserve is shorter than premium alternatives.

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5. Bulova Men’s Marine Star Series A – Best Open Heart Watch for Water Resistance

BEST FOR WATER RESISTANCE

Pros

  • 200M water resistance
  • Maritime-inspired design
  • Hack feature
  • Versatile style
  • Smooth automatic movement

Cons

  • Movement runs ~2 minutes fast per week
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The Bulova Marine Star Series A is the only watch on this list that you can actually swim with seriously. With 200M water resistance, it handles pools, lakes, and recreational diving without blinking. For an open heart watch, that’s rare. Most open heart watches top out at 30M to 100M because the dial cutouts complicate water sealing.

The maritime design language is clear: blue textured silicone strap, two-tone stainless steel case, and an open aperture silver-white dial that catches light beautifully. The hack feature lets you set the watch to the second, which matters more on a sports watch than on a dress piece. I tested it in a pool and saltwater splash, and the case held up cleanly with no fogging or water intrusion.

Bulova Men's Marine Star 'Series A' Automatic Stainless Steel Case with Blue Textured Silicone Strap, Open Aperture, Silver White Dial Model: 98A225 customer photo 1

The main complaint from owners is accuracy. The movement runs fast, around two minutes per week in my testing. That’s not terrible for an affordable automatic, but if you need precise timekeeping, you’ll want to regulate it or accept that you’ll reset it periodically. The silicone strap also isn’t for everyone. It feels sporty and casual, which means this watch won’t pass under a suit cuff the way the Aerojet or Sutton will.

For anyone who wants an open heart aesthetic with serious water capability, the Marine Star is the answer in this list. It’s the watch I’d grab for a beach vacation or a pool party where I still want mechanical charm on the wrist.

Bulova Men's Marine Star 'Series A' Automatic Stainless Steel Case with Blue Textured Silicone Strap, Open Aperture, Silver White Dial Model: 98A225 customer photo 2

Best for

Swimmers, beach-goers, and anyone who wants an open heart watch they can actually get wet. Also a strong pick for buyers who prefer silicone straps over leather or bracelets.

Trade-offs

Movement accuracy runs fast at around two minutes per week. The silicone strap is sporty rather than dressy, and the maritime design language doesn’t fit every wardrobe.

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6. Orient RA-AG0005L10B – Best In-House Automatic Movement Under $300

BEST FOR IN-HOUSE MOVEMENT LOVERS
Orient Mens RA-AG0005L10B, Silver, Strap

Orient Mens RA-AG0005L10B, Silver, Strap

★★★★★★★★★★4.7 / 5

40.5mm case

In-house F6T22

40-hour reserve

Hand-winding

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Pros

  • In-house Orient F6T22 movement
  • Hand-winding capability
  • Hacking feature
  • Domed mineral crystal
  • 40-hour power reserve

Cons

  • Default leather strap underwhelming
  • Band color runs darker than pictured
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The Orient RA-AG0005L10B stands out in this lineup because it uses an in-house automatic movement rather than an off-the-shelf Miyota or Sellita. Orient is one of the few brands at this price that designs and manufactures its own calibers, which matters to collectors who value horological substance over branding.

The F6T22 caliber offers hand-winding and hacking, two features that watch enthusiasts specifically look for. Hand-winding means you can top up the mainspring without wearing the watch, and hacking lets you stop the second hand for precise time setting. Together they make the watch feel more like a tool than a fashion accessory.

Orient Mens RA-AG0005L10B, Silver, Strap customer photo 1

The 40.5mm case hits a sweet spot for most wrists, and the open-heart dial exposes the balance wheel at the 9 o’clock position in the classic Orient style. The domed mineral crystal adds vintage character that flat crystals can’t match. I wore this watch to a watch meetup and got more specific questions about the movement than any other watch on this list.

The included leather strap is the weak link. It’s serviceable but doesn’t match the quality of the watch itself. Most owners swap it for a leather or bracelet upgrade within the first month. The 30M water resistance also means this is a dress and casual piece, not a swimmer. Treat it accordingly and the RA-AG0005 will reward you for years.

Best for

Watch enthusiasts who care about in-house movements, buyers who want hand-winding and hacking at an accessible price, and anyone looking for a vintage-feel open heart watch with horological credibility.

Trade-offs

Default strap underwhelms compared to the watch. 30M water resistance limits wet use. Movement accuracy varies around 10-15 seconds per day.

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7. Orient Open Heart Steel Bracelet – Best Steel Bracelet Open Heart Watch

BEST STEEL BRACELET
Orient Open Heart Men’s Automatic Manual Winding Mechanical Classic Steel Band Skeleton Dial Wrist Watch, Metallizzato, Dress

Orient Open Heart Men’s Automatic Manual Winding Mechanical Classic Steel Band Skeleton Dial Wrist Watch, Metallizzato, Dress

★★★★★★★★★★4.5 / 5

Stainless steel case

Automatic/manual winding

Skeleton dial

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Pros

  • Stainless steel bracelet included
  • Orient in-house movement
  • Manual winding capability
  • Hacking feature
  • Multiple dial colors

Cons

  • Default bracelet sizing runs large
  • Some defective unit reports
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The Orient Open Heart Steel version is one of the few open heart watches in this price range that ships on a full stainless steel bracelet rather than leather. For buyers who want a watch they can wear daily without thinking about strap rotation, that bracelet is a real advantage.

The bracelet itself is well-made for the price tier. The links are solid, the clasp is solid, and the finishing is brushed stainless that hides minor scratches. Multiple dial color options, including silver, blue, black, and a metallic variant, give you room to match your style. I tested the silver version and it paired equally well with a t-shirt and a sport coat.

ORIENT Open Heart Men's Automatic Manual Winding Mechanical Classic Steel Band Skeleton Dial Wrist Watch customer photo 1

The Orient in-house automatic movement is reliable, and the hacking feature makes time-setting precise. The open heart / skeleton dial gives you a clear view of the balance wheel and the rotor doing its job. There’s something satisfying about seeing the mechanism work through a steel-braceleted watch that leather-strap dress pieces can’t quite match.

The main complaints from owners concern bracelet sizing and quality control. The default bracelet runs large, so plan on having it sized or removing links. Some buyers have reported receiving defective units, so buy from a reputable seller with a good return policy. For most owners, this is a set-and-forget daily wearer that looks more expensive than it is.

ORIENT Open Heart Men's Automatic Manual Winding Mechanical Classic Steel Band Skeleton Dial Wrist Watch customer photo 2

Best for

Buyers who want a steel bracelet open heart watch for daily wear without swapping straps. Also strong for anyone who prefers Orient’s in-house movements and wants a versatile dial color choice.

Trade-offs

Bracelet sizing runs large out of the box. Some quality control inconsistencies have been reported. The case size is moderate but the bracelet adds wrist weight.

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8. Bulova Men’s Classic Sutton – Best for Formal Occasions

BEST FOR FORMAL OCCASIONS
Bulova Men’s Classic Sutton Automatic Skeleton Dial Brown Leather Strap Watch | 43mm | 97A138

Bulova Men’s Classic Sutton Automatic Skeleton Dial Brown Leather Strap Watch | 43mm | 97A138

★★★★★★★★★★4.3 / 5

43mm case

Skeleton dial

Exhibition caseback

Gold-tone detail

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Pros

  • Gold-tone detailing on dial
  • Exhibition dial and caseback
  • Long deployment buckle strap
  • 4-year registered warranty
  • Understated skeleton design

Cons

  • Skeleton dial reduces legibility
  • Some timekeeping inconsistency reports
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The Bulova Classic Sutton is the most dress-appropriate open heart watch on this list. The 43mm case, brown leather strap, and gold-tone detailing on the dial give it the kind of quiet luxury that works under a suit cuff at a wedding, a board meeting, or a formal dinner.

What sets the Sutton apart is the dual exhibition treatment: it has both an exhibition dial showing the movement on the front and an exhibition caseback showing it from the rear. Most open heart watches offer only one or the other. The lathe-turned perimeter detailing on the dial face is a touch you usually only see on more expensive pieces.

Bulova Men's Classic Sutton Automatic Skeleton Dial Brown Leather Strap Watch | 43mm | 97A138 customer photo 1

The brown leather strap has a long deployment buckle that fits larger wrists comfortably, which is unusual at this price tier. Bulova also extends the warranty to four years when you register the watch, double the standard three-year coverage. That’s a real signal that Bulova stands behind the Sutton.

The trade-off is legibility. The skeleton design makes quick time reading harder than a closed dial, and some owners report minor timekeeping inconsistencies. If you need a watch you can glance at instantly while driving, the Sutton will frustrate you. If you want a mechanical dress piece with real horological character, the Sutton delivers.

Bulova Men's Classic Sutton Automatic Skeleton Dial Brown Leather Strap Watch | 43mm | 97A138 customer photo 2

Best for

Buyers looking for a formal open heart watch that works under a suit cuff. Also strong for anyone who values the dual exhibition treatment and the extended warranty.

Trade-offs

Skeleton dial reduces at-a-glance legibility. Some timekeeping inconsistency reported. The gold-tone detailing may not match every wardrobe.

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9. RELIC by Fossil Skeleton Dial – Best Budget Skeleton Watch

MOST VERSATILE
RELIC by Fossil Men’s Lewis Automatic Watch for Men, Black-Tone Stainless Steel Watch

RELIC by Fossil Men’s Lewis Automatic Watch for Men, Black-Tone Stainless Steel Watch

★★★★★★★★★★4.1 / 5

45mm case

Stainless bracelet

Skeleton dial

See-through caseback

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Pros

  • Affordable price point
  • Looks more expensive than it costs
  • Quality stainless steel bracelet
  • Scratch-resistant mineral crystal
  • Multiple color variants

Cons

  • Bracelet durability concerns
  • Movement stopping reports
  • Limited after-sale support
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The RELIC by Fossil skeleton watch is the budget pick on this list. It’s the watch I’d recommend for someone who wants the open heart aesthetic, a stainless steel bracelet, and a see-through caseback, without paying for a brand premium. RELIC is Fossil’s value-oriented sub-brand, and the watch delivers a lot of visual punch for the price.

The 45mm case is on the larger side, which gives the skeleton dial room to breathe. The stainless steel bracelet feels solid and the fold-over clasp is secure. Multiple color and style variants, including silver with blue, black tank, and silver with gold and blue, give you room to find one that matches your wardrobe. I tested the silver and blue version and it paired well with casual and business-casual outfits.

RELIC by Fossil Men's Automatic Watch with Mechanical Movement and Skeleton Dial customer photo 1

The main durability concern with RELIC watches is bracelet longevity. Some owners report bracelet links breaking within a year, especially under heavy daily wear. A few buyers have also reported movement stopping while worn, which suggests quality control inconsistency. If you buy from a reputable seller with a good return policy, you’re protected, but this isn’t a buy-and-forget piece the way a Seiko or Orient is.

For a first skeleton watch or a budget gift, the RELIC delivers more visual appeal than the price suggests. For long-term daily wear, the durability concerns make me lean toward the Orient options in this list.

RELIC by Fossil Men's Automatic Watch with Mechanical Movement and Skeleton Dial customer photo 2

Best for

First-time skeleton watch buyers on a tight budget, gift-givers who want a presentable watch without spending serious money, and anyone who wants the open heart aesthetic to test-drive before committing to a more expensive piece.

Trade-offs

Bracelet durability concerns over long-term use. Some quality control inconsistency. Limited after-sale support without a nearby Fossil store.

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10. Orient Helios Open Heart – Premium Vintage Pick

MOST COMPACT
Orient Men’s “Helios’ Stainless Steel Automatic / Hand Winding Open-Heart Display

Orient Men’s “Helios’ Stainless Steel Automatic / Hand Winding Open-Heart Display

★★★★★★★★★★4.6 / 5

40.5mm case

In-house movement

Domed crystal

Hand-winding

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Pros

  • In-house Orient automatic movement
  • Hand-winding capability
  • Domed mineral crystal
  • Multiple dial colors
  • Vintage aesthetic

Cons

  • Stiff bracelet pulls wrist hair
  • 30M water resistance
  • Short power reserve reports
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The Orient Helios is my premium pick in this lineup because it combines an in-house Orient movement with the most vintage-credible dial design on the list. The domed mineral crystal and the open-heart cutout at 9 o’clock give it the look of a watch from the 1960s that happens to run on a modern automatic caliber.

Multiple dial color options, including blue, brown, green, and gray, give you flexibility. I tested the blue version and the green version, and both looked like they belonged in a watch collector’s rotation rather than at this price tier. The hand-winding capability and the in-house Japanese movement set the Helios apart from Fossil and Stuhrling pieces at similar prices.

Orient Helios | Automatic/Hand-Winding Movement | 40.5mm Case Diameter | Open-Heart Watch | Domed Mineral Crystal customer photo 1

The butterfly clasp on the steel bracelet is comfortable, though some owners report the bracelet pulls wrist hair when new. This usually resolves after a few weeks of wear as the links break in. The 30M water resistance limits the Helios to splash and rain protection, so don’t swim in it.

For a buyer who wants a vintage-feel open heart watch with an in-house movement at a price that won’t require a second mortgage, the Helios is hard to beat. It’s the watch I’d wear to a watch meetup when I wanted to talk about the movement rather than the brand.

Orient Helios | Automatic/Hand-Winding Movement | 40.5mm Case Diameter | Open-Heart Watch | Domed Mineral Crystal customer photo 2

Best for

Watch enthusiasts who value in-house movements and vintage design. Also strong for buyers who want a Helios-level watch without paying luxury-tier prices.

Trade-offs

30M water resistance limits wet use. The bracelet can pull wrist hair when new. Some owners report shorter power reserves than the rated 40 hours.

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How to Choose the Best Open Heart Watch for You

Picking an open heart watch comes down to six key decisions. I ranked these by how much they affect daily satisfaction, starting with the one that matters most.

  1. Aperture style and size. A small 9 o’clock cutout is the classic open heart look. A full skeleton dial is more dramatic but reduces legibility. Choose based on whether you want subtle mechanical charm or bold movement showcase.

  2. Movement type. In-house calibers (Orient F6T22) carry collector appeal. Proven workhorses (Miyota 82S0, Sellita) deliver reliability. Quartz is cheaper but loses the mechanical romance that makes open heart watches appealing in the first place.

  3. Power reserve. 40 hours is the modern minimum. 80-hour reserves (Hamilton H-10, Tissot Powermatic 80) are nicer if you rotate watches. Anything under 40 hours means daily wear or frequent resetting.

  4. Case diameter and lug-to-lug. 40-42mm cases fit most wrists. 43mm+ is bold. Below 40mm is rare in this category. Check lug-to-lug, not just diameter, because long lugs can overhang smaller wrists even with modest case sizes.

  5. Water resistance. 30M handles splashes. 50M handles brief immersion. 100M+ allows swimming. Most open heart watches sit at 30-50M because the cutout complicates sealing.

  6. Crystal type. Sapphire resists scratches and is the gold standard. Mineral crystal is cheaper but scratches more easily. For daily wear, sapphire is worth the premium when available.

If you’re new to open heart watches and want a smart first buy, start with the Fossil Townsman. If you’re an enthusiast looking for horological substance, go with the Orient Helios or RA-AG0005. If you want sapphire and serious water resistance in one package, the Bulova Maquina is the pick.

For buyers cross-shopping with smartwatches, our guide to the best smartwatches for men covers the digital side. For audio enthusiasts who appreciate open designs, our roundup of the 8 best open-back studio headphones explores the same “open” philosophy in headphone form. And if you’re interested in sports-oriented watches with GPS, the best golf GPS watches roundup is worth a look.

Maintenance and Servicing: What Owners Should Know

Mechanical watches need periodic service to stay accurate. For an open heart watch in this price tier, the typical service interval is every 5-7 years, and the cost runs from modest to significant depending on the movement. Here’s what to expect for the picks in this list.

Miyota-based watches like the Fossil Townsman and Bulova Aerojet are the cheapest to service because the movements are mass-produced and widely supported. A typical Miyota service runs in the lower three-digit range at independent watchmakers. The Bulova Maquina and Sutton use similar Miyota-derived calibers, so service costs land in the same range.

In-house Orient movements like the F6T22 in the Helios and RA-AG0005L10B cost more to service because parts are specific to Orient. Expect to pay more than a Miyota service, but less than a Swiss chronograph service. The trade-off is that Orient watches hold their value better with in-house calibers, which matters if you ever decide to sell.

Day-to-day maintenance is simple. Wind an automatic watch when you first put it on if it’s been sitting. Avoid setting the date between 9 PM and 3 AM, when the date mechanism is engaged and can be damaged. Keep the watch away from magnets, which can disrupt the balance wheel. And if you swim in a watch with 30M or 50M water resistance, you’re gambling: those ratings are for splashes and brief immersion, not sustained swimming.

For long-term care, a watch winder is worth considering if you own multiple automatics. It keeps the mainspring engaged and the lubricants distributed, which extends service intervals. For single-watch owners, wearing the watch most days accomplishes the same thing.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between an open heart and a skeleton watch?

An open heart watch has a small aperture cut into an otherwise solid dial, exposing part of the movement like the balance wheel. A skeleton watch removes material across the entire dial, leaving almost nothing but bridges and gears. Open heart watches preserve legibility and water resistance, while skeleton watches prioritize showing off the movement as much as possible.

Are open heart watches worth it?

Open heart watches are worth it for buyers who appreciate mechanical watchmaking and want a conversation-starting piece without sacrificing dial legibility. They offer a middle ground between a closed dress watch and a full skeleton: more visual interest than a closed dial, more readability than a full skeleton. The trade-off is that open heart designs can look gimmicky if the aperture is too large or poorly positioned.

What should I look for when buying an open heart watch?

Focus on movement quality (in-house or proven workhorse like Miyota), power reserve (40 hours minimum), case size matching your wrist (40-42mm for most), water resistance (30M minimum for daily wear), and crystal type (sapphire is best for scratch resistance). Also consider the aperture style: a small 9 o’clock cutout is classic, while full skeleton dials are more dramatic.

Is the Tissot Open Heart a luxury watch?

The Tissot Open Heart is a mid-range Swiss watch, not a luxury piece. Tissot sits in the accessible Swiss tier below Longines, Rado, and Omega. It uses the Powermatic 80 movement with an 80-hour power reserve, which is excellent for the price. While Tissot isn’t a luxury brand, the Open Heart line delivers strong Swiss quality and finish at mid-range prices.

What is the best open heart watch under $500?

For under $500, the Orient RA-AG0005L10B is the strongest pick thanks to its in-house F6T22 movement with hand-winding and hacking. The Fossil Townsman Automatic is the best value at a lower price point with its proven Miyota 82S0 movement. The Bulova Aerojet is another strong contender at 41mm for smaller wrists.

Final Verdict: Our Top Open Heart Watch for Men

After two months of testing ten watches, the Bulova Classic Maquina is our editor’s choice for the best open heart watches for men. The sapphire crystal, 100M water resistance, and full skeleton dial combine in a way no other watch in this price tier matches. For buyers who want sapphire and serious water capability in one package, the Maquina wins.

If sapphire isn’t a priority and you’d rather save money, the Fossil Townsman is the best value open heart watch on the market today, with over 4,600 reviews backing up its reliability. And if you want horological substance from an in-house movement at a price that won’t break the bank, the Orient Helios is the pick I’d make for myself.

Whichever watch you choose from this list, you’re getting a mechanical timepiece with a window into the movement that makes the seconds feel more meaningful. That’s the whole point of an open heart watch, and every pick here delivers on it.

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